Mobile home construction – At the factory

Mobile Homes built before 1976 were constructed to much lower standards than those built later. Homes built prior to 1976 had only one or two inches of insulation wrapped around the walls, floor and ceiling, 2" x 2" or 2" x 3" studs, uninsulated air ducts in the floor and ceiling, no ceiling vapor barrier, and jalousie windows. In addition, some homes built between 1967? and 1971 were constructed with aluminum wiring. Mobile homes manufactured in 1976 or later were built to much higher standards required by the HUD (US Government Dept. of Housing and Urban Development).

Modern mobile home manufacturing plants are marvels of organizational efficiency. Approximately 150 production workers will produce 10-12 floors per day. Floors is an industry term meaning 1 singlewide or 1/2 of a doublewide. The work is routine, fast paced, and physically demanding. Workers are rewarded for speed and penalized for errors in ways that encourage teamwork and put pressure on them to work as a team. These bonuses are also frequently tied to attendance to avoid problems resulting from absenteeism on Mondays and Fridays.

In the following paragraphs I will go through the construction process. There are variations from factory to factory but in general the homes are all built the same way. Everything is done with jigs from a limited number of plans. The plan to plan variation is not great and anyone who has worked at the factory for more than a few weeks has all the variations memorized. The following description is for a singlewide factory. Just for fun I have attached a list of the defects a new homeowner might want to check for before accepting deliver of home.

Frames Belly paper 16' wide is unrolled for the length needed and stapled to the wood frame that will run around the perimeter of the home. Insulation bats as laid on top of this and electrical wire pulled to the points it will come up through the floor and coiled in place. Pre-assembled water and sewer lines and the ductwork for heat/AC are dropped in. Pre-cut floor joists are then nailed in place. With the joists in place the lines are fastened into position using pre-cut forms to make sure they have the right slope. The result is that all the water, sewer, and electrical lines in a finished home are above the insulation where they will stay warm from the heat in the house. Five or six people can do all this in an hour or less.

Floors. The completed frame is lifted, moved over, and set down on top of the axles and wheels that have been assembled elsewhere. Liquid glue is spread on the top of the floor joists and frame members and sheets of tongue and groove plywood or OSB are nailed in place. Holes have already been cut in these sheets for the water and drain line penetrations. Since the plywood is square this step really determines how straight the walls of the house become. If the grooves are seated properly and care is taken to make sure the panels are lined up before they are nailed in place the materials themselves produce nice straight edges. If things get to rushed, materials are badly warped, and the overhangs get trimmed with a router the edge of the home may look like a snake. In any case, with the hundreds of nails driven in by the air nailers and the glue set, there isn't going to be any way to change it later.

Floor Prep. The completed floor is then rolled to a prep area where one person gets under the home and drives lag bolts through the metal frame members (outriggers) and into the floor joists. This is what connects the home proper to the metal frame. These same bolts are what can be adjusted after the home is set to try and stop floor squeaks. On top of the floor there is a lot of activity. The areas of the floor that will be covered with vinyl get sanded. Holes for the floor registers are cut, ducts installed and glued/stapled into place. The water heater and furnace are fastened in place. The vinyl is put in place and stapled around the edges (no Adhesive). The vinyl is then covered with a protective mat or plastic sheeting. Finally, toilets are set in place.

Walls. At the same time the floor is getting nailed down the exterior and interior walls are being assembled. Like the floor, precut studs are laid out on a jig and nailed in place. Insulation is unrolled between the studs. The edges of the studs are coated with liquid glue and precut panels which will become the inside wall of the house stapled into place. Openings for windows and electrical outlets are cut at this time. The entire assembly is lifted with a hoist and moved over to where it can be set onto a floor. You can imagine that an 80' wall made of 2 x 4's butted together has LOTS of flex in it and how straight it becomes depends on the straightness of the floor it is attached to.

Assembly. One of the exterior side walls is lowered into place on a bead of caulk and fastened into place. The end walls are fastened into place and interior walls placed. The interior walls are pre-assembled, with paneling on only one side so the inside is accessible to electrical. As fast as the interior walls are placed the pre-made cabinets, counters, etc. are put in place, wall mirrors hung etc. Finally the 2nd exterior wall is lowered and fastened into place.

Ceilings. Along with floors and walls, ceilings has been busy laying panels out on a jig and setting pre-assembled trusses in place. Trusses are nailed to perimeter 2 x 4's and held in place by wood strips at the centerline and at a couple of other places. The point where the bottom of the truss rests on top of the ceiling panel is sprayed with a quick setting foam adhesive. The ceiling is sized to go from outside edge to outside edge of the house so the edge of the panel rests on the wall. Do we begin to see how repairing or replacing a ceiling panel can be a challenge? If the ceiling is to be textured, it is picked up and moved to a spray/paint area where someone can walk around under it and apply the appropriate coating(s). Finally it is moved to an area where the holes for electrical outlets, ceiling fans etc. are cut and the electrical boxes installed.

Electrical and Assembly. As soon as the walls are placed electrical can beginning pulling the lines that were dropped in place by floors. Holes are drilled through the bottom of the wall and the floor material and metal sleeves hammered into place. The wire that was coiled in the belly is pulled through these sleeves and up into the walls of the home. The main panel box is installed and breakers etc. wired into place. Someone uses a router to cut notches into all the exterior wall studs and wire for the wall outlets is stapled in these notches. Sometimes, depending on the siding that will be applied, the wire is covered with shields to prevent a nail from being driven through it when siding is applied. At the same time the plumbing people are installing showers and tubs and the cabinet and mirror people are fastening their things in place. Additionally, the ceiling is lowered onto the home and fastened in place with metal straps. Electrical also runs wire from ceiling outlets, fans, bathroom vents etc. Installing electrical boxes and running wire is the process most likely to disturb the insulation. Batts get pulled to the side so boxes can be installed, they come loose etc. If this happens and is not corrected the walls have voids which are going to reduce the efficiency of the heating and cooling systems.

Roofing. A layer of rockwool insulation is blown in on top of the ceiling. Then, if the house is getting a shingle roof, plywood or OSB decking is is nailed over the trusses. The decking is covered with tar paper and shingled. If this is to be a metal roof, there is no decking and a large roll of metal is unrolled over the house. It is fastened at on end and then stretched from the other. When stretched, the second end is fastened down and then the sides are folded over, caulked and stapled.

Siding. While the roof is being done others are fastening siding. This may be hardboard, metal or vinyl.

Trimout This is where the mistakes get found and, hopefully, taken care of. Trim strips can cover a multitude of things quickly and cheaply. This is when protective mats are taken off the vinyl and any damage discovered. Carpet is installed, windows are caulked, interior doors are hung etc.

Testing. The home is hooked up to power, water and gas and everything should get tested. Inspectors are looking for water leaks, dripping faucets, improperly connected light switches etc. This is the point where the some critical management decisions get made. If there was to much pressure for production in spite of absent people or inexperienced workers there will be a much heavier load for the testing and trimout crews. Homes that are not quite ready to ship will start to back up in the yard. The temptation will be to ship them anyhow. However, this is a very temporary solution because the dealers or customers are going to find these problems on the lot or after it has been set. Warranty repairs require huge amounts of travel time and things that would have been simple to fix during construction are much more difficult to handle. For example, sheet vinyl is just laid down and stapled in the factory. If a service technician has to replace it he has to cut it to fit and probably put down quarter round along all the edges. Work that took 15 minutes in the factory becomes a two man, two day job for service.

Transport. Lots of interesting things happen during transport. Drivers are paid by the mile so they like to make time. Police in Albuquerque recently clocked some homes going through a construction zone at 65MPH. During transport the bumps, vibration, and other forces twist and torque the homes and frequently crack panels, loosen connections etc. Drivers occasionally rub against traffic signs etc. Mobile home tires are inflated to 2.5 times the usual pressure so blowouts are not uncommon. If a couple of tires go at once and the frame hits the ground it can be bent making future leveling impossible.

Setup. Setup can raise difficult issues because of the number of organizations involved. The factory is responsible for the home itself, the dealer is responsible for making sure the home was ordered properly and any optional features are installed properly, the setup company is responsible for setting and leveling the home, and hooking up the water, gas and electricity. If air-conditioning is needed that is probably done by another company. Now suppose an electrical breaker blows whenever the AC comes on. Is the main electrical panel, done by the factory, at fault, did the AC installer make a mistake etc. The opportunity for the parties involved to blame someone else are almost endless.

{ 27 comments… read them below or add one }

kathy

We are looking at a used a trailer that has some iron?/metal apparatus sticking out one end past the skirting area. It looks like it might be the tow bar but i’ve really no idea. The home otherwise looks good and is on it’s own land, but not permanent foundation. Any idea what this thing sticking out from under the trailer could be and if it is a serious problem?

Reply

Paul

Without a picture I can’t be sure, but on older mobile homes the hitch was frequently left in place and the skirting cut to fit around it. Sometimes the hitch was welded on so skirting around it would be much cheaper than removing it. Frequently they left the wheels and axles under the home too.

Reply

Juan Inchausti

It’s a good overall explanation as to how its built. I own one myself and would like your opinion on how often to re-level my 1492 sq. ft. home, also is it just a matter of tightening the piers that are loose?

Reply

Paul

I don’t know that there is any reason to re-level unless you notice problems. What needs to be done would depend on what cause the house to get out of level. Did water get under it, was the soil not properly compacted, etc.

Reply

cathy

I wish to know what mph winds can a singlewide mobile home withstand

Reply

Paul

From the weather reports I can see why you might be worried, but unfortunately, there isn’t an easy answer. For many years now new mobile homes have been required to meet HUD standards for wind resistance. The standards that must be met depend on where the home will be located. So mobile homes sold in much of Florida will have to meet the highest standards of wind resistance. Here is a link to the HUD standards for mobile home manufacture. You can look at the pdf for wind rules and anything else you might want to see. This link has a wind zone map that might be helpful.

Reply

Christine

I’ve searched the floor articles and could find no articles on my issue. The floor of our home seem to be “rippling” . It’s as though the floor is solid in one area and not in the next, and it feels like it’s based on where the beams are beneath the structure. The most prominent area is in the kitchen. Our home is on a poured concrete basement that still looks good and solid. We have the recommended number of jack posts installed. It was manufactured in 2002. Have you ever heard of this before?

Reply

Paul

I’m coming up blank on this one. Water/moisture is the only thing I know that commonly causes problems with mobile home floors. You are telling me there are no leaks showing under the home so that can’t be it. Is there any water in the A/C ducts? Is there some reason the humidity in the home would be exceptionally high? I wonder if the problem will go away when you turn on the furnace?

Reply

Daniel Owens

1996 Schult New Generation 16 X80 includes 4′ tongue. Some saging of sheetrock ceiling -no cracks. Put 1×4 strips on ceiling (ripped to 3″ to match 5/8 by 3″ decorative trim. Screwed these strips to the ceiling trusses. Was mostly effective with the sheetrock sage , but still had variations with the differences with the ceiling trusses. Checked the attic the ceiling trusses were 2″by 2″ . Opened the gable and put a 24′ 2×4 (3 —8′ pieces scabbed -held with screws) and screwed the ceiling trusses to the 24′ 2×4 -that was placed on edge in the attic for strength. This helped. Was working with 7′ ceilings with wall support at 9′ and 6′ and 8′ support of the 24′ 2×4. Disappointed about the 2″ vertical supports from the ceiling to the roof about 30″ from the outside will More fink supports in the trusses would be stronger.
After a strong storm I had replaced the single sheet of sheet metal roof (actually strips crimped together) with 26 gauge -5 rib metal. Left the flat metal in place. Is it advisable to plug the end of the ribs of the 5 rib strips. Thanks for the opportunity to respond.

Reply

Paul

Plugging the ends would keep wasps from making nests there, but the heat might do that anyhow.

Reply

Daniel Owens

Also my attic is not vented. Should it be.

Reply

Paul

Leave it the way it came from the factory.

Reply

Will

Paul, I am glad I found YOU!. I have a DW 24×56. I basically gutted the interior.I hung drywall on the ceilings and all walls 1/2″ aprox. 110 sheets. recently I noticed that the floors around the total perimeter of the house sagged anywhere from 1/4′ to 1/2′. To tell you the truth I don’t know if it was like this when I got it or not.I tried jacking on the edge of the floors , in one area and it came back,but I was afraid to have all that weight on the floor edge. I was told this happened because of the weight of the drywall.Today I reinforced the exterior perimeter with 4×4′s every 4 feet to maybe help combat this from going further. I would like to cover the floors with plywood and then install wood floors I know I will have to do some shimming. I also want to side the place. My question is ,Am I adding to much weight to this home.It was built in 1983(?). Thank you again for being on the web. Will

Reply

Paul

Yes, I think the weight is getting out of hand and you are asking for more problems.

Keep in mind that mobile home manufacturers have engineers on staff full time. Their job is to figure out the cheapest ways to meet, but not exceed the HUD standards. Unlike a site built house there is NO extra weight bearing capacity. In addition the walls rest on the very end of the outriggers so weight their puts the maximum stress (leverage) onto the support system. Your ceiling work also added weight to the walls. Wood floors should not actually be as much of a problem since their weight is spread out and largely supported by the floor joists and main I beams.

Reply

Roger

Is it impractical to try to take a single wide frame and build from that?

Reply

Paul

I doubt the numbers would pencil out. I think you could probably buy one that needs work for less than the materials cost.

Reply

Matt

Paul, I want to build a 12×8 addition to my 60′s 12×60 mobile. I would like to knock out 12′ of the outside wall to enlarge the living room. I’m wondering if this is possible without a center post and if so how much of a header or beam do I need? If you have any type of blueprint to a trailer that old I would greatly appreciate it.
Thanks

Reply

Paul

I’m not an engineer, and have never seen any plans that show how such an opening must be supported.

Reply

Vicky

I have a 1978 Conch Double Wide with a standard pitch roof. I also have an ugly 7′ flat ceilings. Can I remove the flat ceiling and vault the ceiling? I was wondering if I could just attach light weight bead board to the 2×2′s (I assume that’s whats in there!), or even to the plywood, and leave the 2×2′s exposed and paint them. At the very least, could I remove the existing, ugly ceiling and replace it with the bead board or some other material?

Vicky

Reply

Paul

Certainly you can replace the existing ceiling tile with something you like better. I think you are going to find a plastic vapor barrier, insulation and trusses above your tile. You don’t want to cut, remove or mess with those.

Reply

Carol

We have a double wide and want to take down a closet in the middle of the kitchen, to open up to the living area, should be be worried about a support beam

Reply

Paul

If the wall you want to remove is on the marriage line where the two halves of the house come together you do NOT want to remove it.

Reply

Carol

Thanks for your replay. The wall we want to remove is 4’6” long, will this still cause a problem and if so what would be the issue. Could we place a support beam across the ceiling, or would that have to much weight for the house?

Reply

Paul

I’m sure that with the proper support in the ceiling and possibly some extra support under the home it can be done. However, I never messed with load bearing walls and can’t offer any specific suggestions.

Reply

Jona

I live in a 1978 double wide, not sure the make and model, I wanted to hang a swing in my sons room and was wondering if there should be studs or something in the ceiling to hang it from or if it would be a good idea, the swing is a cacoon like swing from IKEA. He has autism and would greatly benefit from having one. How much weight could the ceiling bear.

Reply

Paul

Bad idea (Using the ceiling). The trusses were designed to handle a load from the top and would never stand up to the use you describe. You might consider building some kind of support structure that stands on the floor.

Reply

Jona

Thanks for your reply, sadly I don’t have that kind of space available. I appreciate your quick responses.

Reply

Leave a Comment

Previous post:

Next post: